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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.